As someone who lives in a hot climate where droughts occur regularly and where the groundwater is 80+ degrees in the summer, I’ve been doing mostly no-chill brewing (letting the hot wort passively cool in an HDPE cube overnight then pitching the next day) to reduce my brewing water usage.
I’ve been really happy with the results, and I’m finally beginning to nail hoppy styles. Anyone else have no-chill experience who’d like to compare notes?
I haven’t tried no-chilling yet but am thinking of converting! Did you have to make any changes to your hop schedule?
Oh yeah. Some commonly offered advice is to move your hop additions 20 mins back (your usually 60 min go in at 40 mins, your 40 mins at 20, etc). This works, but I found this resulted in too much bitterness and little aroma/flavor for hoppy styles.
I had a fellow home brewer recommend just putting every hop addition, save the bittering charge, directly into the cube and racking the wort on top of it. That’s worked really well for me.
Your 60 minute addition isn’t going to get any more bitterness compared to adding it at 40 mins. I’d use a 60 min addition for bittering and throw the rest in at flameout, like an extended whirlpool.
Is that so? I opened up my IBU calculator and the difference between 40 and 60 is indeed minimal but definitely noticeable for very bitter styles.
Yes to the extended in-cube “whirlpool,” it’s been working well for me recently.
IBU production slows down over time. There will be some increase from 60 mins to 120 but the effect will be a lot less than say 40 to 60. Not saying there isn’t a difference, but that it won’t be that great.
See this paper for graphs of IBU production over time of the boil. You will see that almost all of the IBU production is in the first 10-15 mins, then it slows right down.
Obviously your taste is the ultimate decider however. If you find too much bitterness then shorten the boil addition, of course. I always add a 60 minute addition, even if it’s very small (5g for a 25L batch will do).