Cable disc brakes. I kept putting it off but it was riding like shit and didn’t feel safe, brake levers nearly contacting the handlebar. I had it in my head that the adjustment was like a 30 minute job. Grabbed Allen wrenches, a couple third hands, screwdrivers. 5 minutes and two Allen bolts later, all done. Topped off the tires with air, quick test ride, meat’s back on the menu. No real point to this post, but maybe you’ve made a quick adjustment or repair that made you happy?

  • Had to replace a gear shifter on my road bike recently, not being aware that I’d have to replace the whole cable to do so and then calibrate tension for the derailleur, but similarly to your experience, the whole thing was easier than expected! Folks should definitely try such repairs and maintenance at home to get to know their bikes better, and it’s not like it’ll cost more to get a pro to do it after you’ve tried (carefully), if it turns out you can’t get the job done yourself.

  •  MentalEdge   ( @MentalEdge@sopuli.xyz ) 
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    19 days ago

    I’m assuming there was still material on the pads?

    When the travel starts to bottom out on my hydraulic disk brakes, that typically means it’s time for new brake pads.

    I know that might not be the case with wire brakes because they don’t adjust the caliper piston positions as the pad wears down, but just making sure.

    If the pads no longer have material, simply tightening the brakes can end up ruining the calipers.

    As for the post, I enjoy the same adjustment. That ride with new pads and reset pistons always feels super nice. They perform in such a satisfying manner compared to when they’re almost worn out.

    •  hemko   ( @hemko@lemmy.dbzer0.com ) 
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      19 days ago

      I’m assuming rim brakes from the text, those usually have enough brake pads for several years or even a decade until the rubber just hardens to unusable. The cables stretch and hose shrinks also over time

      •  MentalEdge   ( @MentalEdge@sopuli.xyz ) 
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        19 days ago

        No.

        OP specifies that they are cable disk brakes, first three words in the post body. There are many possible reasons for why the brakes could be loose, but the first step should be making sure it isn’t because the pads are done.

        If they are and you adjust them back to tight, you’ll end up wearing through the pads and start wearing away your caliper pistons.

        OP may not be aware of the pad wear, as checking how much material is remaining usually means taking the pads (or wheels) out to inspect them, as the they can be fairly obscured by the caliper.

        I’m not talking out my ass here, I’ve worked on both hydraulic and cable disk brakes.

        Depending on the quality of the pads and how much you ride, they can wear out very quickly, or last many years.

        It’s likely that the pads are fine, but I don’t know if OP has worked on their brakes before, and whether being aware of how worn the pads are is a detail they know about.

    • Pads are brand new, I had a pro replace them a couple months ago (lazy). It’s just this bike positively eats brake cable for breakfast. (Weird, this got mis-threaded in the reply, trying again)