I have both a bandsaw and scrollsaw, and use the scrollsaw for thicker wood all the time. 7cm would be pushing the tool to the limit. When I cut 5cm maple, the blade bent considerably inside the wood, and burning was a real factor. However, I was pushing and should have just slowed down.

Still use my scrollsaw all the time, it’s pretty much the only thing I’ve found that does good interior cuts of of wood, and curves much better than a bandsaw.

Agree with others about the joints. I had a 20 gallon aquarium on an old pine table my dad built. Mortise and tenon joinery on the aprons, plus angle brackets to hold the legs in (which were 2.5"x1.5"). This is 50 years old and quite frankly over-built.

The top started buckling, cracked, and the legs splayed a little under the load after a year. It’s mostly healed itself in the ten years since the aquarium has been gone, but never underestimate how much weight an aquarium can put out.

He designed a pine stand for a 70 gallon aquarium after that, and the floor buckled before it did. The top is slotted pine, like this, (for condensation which can damage wood) with small spacer blocks in between. I believe these sit on 4x4s that are mostly hidden on the inside by being part of panels and frame. Mostly mortise and tenon and bridle joints.

Most of the examples online use construction lumber on the inside, and face frames on the outside.

This is kind of a weird video, more content than instruction. It’s a lot of unnecessary effort to put into shop furniture: like using sliding dovetails and sanding the top. Then you’re left with a product that is less easy to use than a belt sander (try changing belts, what’s the grit?) and takes up a massive amount of space (which makes sense if you have two garages.) I mean, it’s fun to see kids experimenting, but if you’re creating content think about what your audience needs or wants to watch.

In the first class I took we used a danish, poly, and mineral spirits blend, which is still going strong ten years later. I’ve been curious about trying this finish though.

Here’s the old-fashioned version of that: Thomas Jefferson’s Bookcase. Having built a book case inspired by this of this out of oak, I’ve noticed no deflection. (It’s structurally different, center-keyed box joints instead of dovetails, thick plywood back, various clear finishes.)

However, I can tell you that there are a few functional problems. One is that the shelves do slide against each other. The little nubbins would help, however, you’re cutting the fibers of the wood or into plys. That could increase deflection. I bought some handwrought nails and may end up using them, but I like the modular nature. Another is that these shelves are not light. I had hoped to make them easy to move, but they are not light. Finally, there’s no cover, so books fall out as they’re getting moved. Barrister bookshelves solve these problems.

If it’s bark or shaving it down, a drawknife is a perfect tool.