Edit: using a 25W iron whose tip wasn’t heating up properly. Had to use its sides to get the solder to melt, which affected precision.

It’s ugly af but it works

I’m a solder soldier

And I’m so sorry for that last part

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Now I need to by something that holds everything in place, because what took most time was, well, that.

    • Awww come on! Making me blush over the internet! 🤣 Other than the board moving around like crazy, making it IMPOSSIBLE to apply stuff properly, I noticed it’s easier to hold the iron in place and move the solder out of the was as soon as it started melting, thus, somehow, an appropriate amount of solider ended up on the tip which I then just dipped onto the target spot.

  • I see you bent the pins to prevent the components from moving around. That helps, but makes soldering in tight spaces difficult and can lead to shorts. You could get away with less solder, and some parts look like they didn’t get hot enough.

    A little dab on the iron for good heat transfer, warm up the wire and pad for about 3s and then apply solder to the opposite end. If everything’s hot enough, solder will wick away. After cooling you should have a little cone shape.

    And congratulations! You have now unlocked “Repairing electrical devices”!

    • Thanks! 🥰 I did indeed worry about shorts and had to - at the end, when there barely any space left - bend the pins in weird angles not to make them touch…

      Maybe someday I’ll be able to replace capacitors in my beloved Adam speakers :D

  • using a 25W iron whose tip wasn’t heating up properly. Had to use its sides to get the solder to melt, which affected precision.

    The tip was likely heating up just fine, what you encountered was probably thermodynamics.

    Very common for novices to intuitively use the point of the tip. For anything but the smallest joints, it actually is the least effective part of the iron.

    Soldering is a game of heat transfer. While you use the iron to transfer heat and try to wet the solder, that thermal energy is being dissipated into the rest of the project - circuit traces, components, and often the heftier ground plane. You’re essentially trying to beat the dissipation rate.

    The point of the tip - and especially a conical tip - has a small surface area. Small surface area transfers a small amount of heat. The sides, conversely, have a larger surface area which results in more heat transfer. Most techs gravitate towards chisel or knife tips since they give a wide, flat surface to put into contact with the work.

    Ultimately, your circuit works - yay! If you’d like to improve the quality of your joints:

    • Add flux to help the solder reflow
    • Keep a bead of solder on the tip to help with heat transfer
    • Maximize the surface area of the tip that is in contact with both sides of the joint - the component and the pad.

    For more stubborn projects, preheating the work with a heat gun can help combat thermal dissipation - just be mindful not to scorch your project!

  • neidu4 ( neidu4@piefed.social ) 
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    9 days ago

    Tip: For many years, decades even, I thought I was bad at soldering. Sure, I got things done, but it was time consuming and ugly.

    Then I bought a quality soldering station, and it was like night and day - I had my suspicions since I somehow did a better soldering job at work than at home.

    Then I got myself a Weller WE 1010 and concluded that I wasn’t the problem. My solder joints come out so much better now. Oh, and of course, use solder flux.

    And another tip: 3D printer is a really nice tool to have if you’re into electronics. The amount of stuff you can build suddenly seems unlimited.

    • Thanks! Even though this was my first time, I felt that something was off…

      I found the Weller 1010 for $214. I’ll sleep on it and then probably buy it anyway. 🤣

      What were you soldering at work, it I may ask? :) Space shuttle circuit boards? 😎

    • Jay ( Rocketpoweredgorilla@lemmy.ca ) 
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      10 days ago

      Same here. Never soldered much so I usually had a cheap pen around and my jobs were always fugly and a pain in the ass to do, Then I got my hands on an old 140 watt Weller 8200 gun.

      My work is still fugly but it’s a hundred times better than it was before and I can do it in half the time… it makes things soooo much easier.

  • notabot ( notabot@piefed.social ) 
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    10 days ago

    The trick to getting the components to stay in place is to gently bend the legs outwards once they’re in place. If you start by installing the shortest components first, the board will also be a bit more stable, although a “helping hands” type clamp is really useful there.

    A couple of the joints look like they might be a bit “dry”, possibly because you didn’t get quite enough heat into the component leg before adding the solder, but it works, so they’re goid enough for this circuit. Good work!

  • glibg10b ( glibg10b@lemmy.zip ) 
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    10 days ago

    Good job :)

    Now you can learn how to simulate this circuit in LTspice, then learn how to recreate this PCB in KiCAD and have JLCPCB make it for $2 plus shipping. Then you can make your own kits!

  • Clambake0351 ( Clambake0351@piefed.zip ) 
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    10 days ago

    Edit: using a 25W iron whose tip wasn’t heating up properly. Had to use its sides to get the solder to melt, which affected precision.

    IDK if it was a new iron or just your first time using it, but you may want to consider cleaning or replacing the tip (which is usually like a $2 part). You can clean it with like a 200+ grit sandpaper pretty easily, and just replace it if that doesn’t work.

    I broke out my old soldering iron a year or two ago and thought I had forgotten some magic technique because I was having the same problems as you. Then I realized the tip of my iron was oxidized and caked with gunk. A 20s replacement job and I was soldering like a pro again.