Specifications:
- Full size (80ish+ size with a reduced numpad will also work)
- ISO key layout (as in, a proper Return key. ANSI can burn)
- Numpad
- Wireless (if possible)
- Don’t need any RGB
- I don’t care about keycaps, so any leftovers will do. They don’t even have to be representative of the actual key, random letters and symbols will be fine, even duplicates
When I wasbinto RC Helicopters i liked flying, but didn’t get much entertainment feom building. This other guy liked building but didn’t care that much about flying. I was hoping to run into someone similar here.
EDIT: The helicopter sory as I posted it elsewhere, in case anyone cares. https://lemmy.ml/comment/2517850
- hellweaver666 ( @hellweaver666@discuss.tchncs.de ) English5•1 year ago
Look at Keychron. Wide selection of boards. Pretty solid build quality and reasonably priced!
- snaptastic ( @snaptastic@beehaw.org ) 2•1 year ago
Second this. I was so happy I bought a second one for work.
- Pepe Godzilla ( @PepeGodzilla@lemmy.ml ) 3•1 year ago
i think you might overestimate the building part.
If you get a barebones board with a hotwap PCB you have to screw in stabilizers for all keys larger than 2u (=2 keys) - Shift, Enter, Backspace and Space. Since you can’t be arsed, screw lubing them. Just screw them in, takes 3 minutes.
Then, place all the switches on Plate and PCB and since they’re hotswap you just press them in.
Then place like 8 gaskets or screws, drop on your PCB-Plate-Switch-Sandwitch, screw together top and bottom with 4 more screws.
When you’re done, mount the caps, also just pop them in place.
That’s it. I reckon it’s about as much work as a 10$ Lego set.
But going prebuilt is far easier of course: Unpack, plug in, done. If you get a hotswap you can change switches later on if you fancy.
- meiko60 ( @meiko60@lemmy.sdf.org ) English1•1 year ago
MX mechanical support ISO and fullsize as well
- wjrii ( @wjrii@kbin.social ) 1•1 year ago
Keychron has the K10 (full size) and K13 (TKL footprint with most of the numpad) in wireless ISO.